John McLeod sent this to bit.listserv.scuba-l:

Cookie, my lady friend, and I returned from Cozumel last weekend. I wanted to give any of those interested a brief description of our 'trip'.

Together, we 'dove' with three different operators. There wasn't a disappointment in the bunch.

By use of the Internet, I spent nearly two solid weeks 'surfing' the sites representing Cozumel & Yucatan area. During the same time I lurked on both SCUBA-l & Techdivers' lists, asking questions when the subject of Cozumel came even close (It's was much more frequent than I would have guessed ... both questions & the subject).

By process of elimination, I choose Aldora Divers. They don't have a shop front on the island. Pretty much have to 'sign-up' before leaving. They're more expensive than the majority of dive operators in Cozumel, but they dive you with computers and large tanks (if needed, and being an air hog, the 120's let me keep up with the rest of the divers). Every dive was at least an hour long.

I was matched up with a vacationing family from the U.S. (scattered from Indiana to Washington D.C.). Their skill levels ranged from 35 years of diving, another was a divemaster to 2 years certified, but very few logged dives since then. I fit somewhere in the middle.

In the four days I dove with Aldora, I made the standard eight dives. I was given the opportunity for more (i.e.. afternoons, twilight and/or night dives) but passed due to social commitments ... drinking cheap beer with friends in the bars & cantinas of San Miquel. The choice of dive sites was left up to us, the divers. We agreed on the 'standard' dives, Palancar Reef (upper & lower), Santa Rosa Wall, San Francisco Reef ... and let the divemaster (same crew all 4 days) choose his favorites, Tormentos Reef, Yocab and a few others I never got in writings. We stayed out of the 'extreme' or 'expert' sites being our first trip to the island.

Off gassing between dives was laying around at Playa Sol, an overpriced beach resort (nonalcoholic fruit drinks, $3 US) for two hours each day. Their boats (4 total, I think) claim to be the fastest, but then, all the operators claim to have the fastest boats. We never had another boat pass us on the open water when we were up to cruising speed. Twin 170's made that little six-pak puppy move, so we really did get to our 1st site of the day before anyone else. And, when everyone else was done for the day, we were just getting back into boat for the second dive. This is why I believe the extra $20 per day with Aldora is well worth it.

Rather than identify each dive (log book style), I just want to give some of the highlights.

Lots of fish. On the 2nd day, I got frustrated not knowing what all these 'finned' things were in the water, so, I bought a 'plastic fish card' labeled "Mexican Caribbean". I can't find a fish listed on it I didn't see.

Coral & sponges the size of small houses. There was so much that if I wasn't drifting and had the time to 'hang' in one spot and count the critters & things, I'd probably use up all 3000 psi of my tank.

While cruising through the Tormentos, a pair of divers descended on us about half way through our dive, just as we found several morays. One of the pair went directly for the biggest green moray eel I've ever seen. He fed it, and it kept snapping closer and closer to the floating bits of food until I thought this guy was history. Then the moray just went limp and floated into his arms. He stroked & scratched it. It reminded me of a big, lazy house cat. The moray was in heaven, twisting just slightly to get closer to this guy. (I'm already back about 15' and ready to back up even further should this green worm go ugly on us ... it didn't.) I was happy playing with a 5' Spotted Moray (with a long stick).

On the same dive, we ducked behind some reefs and a couple of 'old men' groupers came out to inspect us. The biggest, probably 100 lbs., wanted to play nose-to-nose with each of us. Another, worked his way behind me and decided that my floating hair would make a good lunch. Surprised by the sudden attack, I turned around quickly and I swear he was smiling at me. What does this mean?

On the third day we convinced Divemaster Daniel to make our next dives in the twilight & night, rather than the usual morning run. The first was at the Santa Rosa Wall. We were playing 'chutes & ladders', entering the Wall at one depth and going either up or down through the coral caves (breaking only a couple of PADI rules about untrained penetration). At the same time, watching the slow transformation of fish changing their roles for the coming of night. We still had plenty of air even though we had been to 100+ fsw, so the divemaster decided to cross over the 100' sand bridge to the next set of reefs. Wrong! Cookie later read to me the description from the 'Diving and Snorkeling Guide to Cozumel',2nd edition, "... like being flushed down a giant toilet."

Daniel Divemaster led the way. Starting at about 75 fsw, he quickly hit somewhere below 100', but I didn't know this until later. The visibility was getting worse, the thermoclimes were changing about every 20 feet. Each diver, as they crossed this watery down-draft tried a different method of crossing. Diver #2 went out and away from the wall and eventually got pushed to 100'. Diver #3 attempted the high road, with this dive marking her 100th logged dive, she panicked, bloated up like a puffer fish and went topside, but all right and she didn't drop her weight belt. Diver #4 was probably the strongest swimmer. He went 'midstream' and just fought to stay in control ... and, hit about 100' also. I, being the last diver, tried to hug the sand. It was like a 'whiteout' during skiing, sand tumbling over me instead of snow. I could feel the sand stinging at my exposed skin. I had to stabilize my mask & regulator several times, as the gods tried to rip them from my face. I swam like I never swam before. I even made a promise to myself that I'd quit smoking all together during my brief encounter with Hell. And, I stopped finally somewhere below 100'.

Once we got huddled up behind another reef (minus one exited diver) we checked air. I'd used nearly 1200 psi of air in that crossing. It didn't take much to convince the divemaster that we were going up. Besides, we have to get ready for the night dive.

The next dive was totally different. Calm and slow was the key words here. We lit ourselves up like Xmas trees and peacefully drifted from one reef to the next over the sandy 'plains'. The divemaster pointed out all the creatures which live in the 'desert' areas. A 4' squid thought he was perfectly camouflaged until he got a camera in his nose. Turning colors and spewing black ink, he sprinted about 20' away and decided he was hidden again. Next!

Sting Ray Town (not quite Sting Ray City) was the next sandy area. None of these were the giants I see in the dive magazines, but, they were everywhere. And, if there weren't enough gliding around us, there were more outlined & buried in the sands below us ... I activated several by gently touching with my blunt knife. Couldn't help messing with mother nature a little bit.

Overall, it's as good if not better than reef diving I experienced while in Southern Florida. I'd recommend it to any ocean diver.

The only thing I would have changed about my experience with Aldora is a 'tune-up' tank prior to the 1st boat dive. It took me two days to get my breathing down to normal. Once they convert your regulator over to DIN fittings, you don't see your equipment until your last day with them. I'll probably take a second regulator setup next time for the aluminum 80's, pretty much standard on the island.

The weather in April makes visibility poor for Cozumel. But, after diving in Monterey Bay, 50' to 75' is perfect by for me. During this time of year, the currents (which normally run northward) can change several times during a dive. It's not a surge, the gentle push will just come to a stop and then you find yourself drifting back over the area you have just 'flown'.

Cookie's experience was an open-water referral with Eve Ackerman, "Eve of Paradise" in Cozumel. Again by prior arrangement, she met with my lady friend on Monday morning, and by Tuesday she was qualified O/W. (Cost $150 US)

The reason I write this is to suggest a better way to get O/W certified ... a referral while on vacation. Cookie tried twice in the 'cooler' waters of California and couldn't get past her 2nd O/W dive for qualification. She's small, wonderfully shaped for a lady, poorly shaped for (men's) rental gear, and doesn't care for all that equipment on her, like most women.

In the warm waters of Cozumel, a 3 mil 'shorty' is probably the heaviest protection necessary. Next time I'll probably take a darker mask. During the day, it's almost too bright.

This was the trip of a lifetime for me & Cookie. Hopefully, the next several dozen or so trips will be just as eventful. As much as I like the ocean, there's something special about the cenotes of Mexico.

If anyone wants any of the email addresses, let me know ... I didn't want to make this an advertisement.

If anyone is interested in the dining, drinking & social life on Cozumel, I'll be glad to ramble on via the email.

We were lucky to have the use of a private home while on the island and the use of their bicycles. We dined out for nearly ever meal. It was a treat in it's own right ... I gained a 'few' extra pounds even though I must have peddled 100 miles in the heat.

A happy diver,

Jim McLeod Jim McLeod

You can also use mcleodj@headmort.com

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